Dhahran Diary

Title: The Desert Prince

DD06

Cub Scouts Meet a Local Sheik. The author, right edge, and fellow scouts S. Case, R. Ewen, W. Fulton, L. Biggins, Rule Cochran, G. Russell, and others. c. 1949, near Dhahran. (anon)

We Scouts met early at the south fence where it angled to include the Davies mansion, the only two story residence in Dhahran. It was clear and hot! We were headed to al Azzaziyah spit and our course of ESE would take us just south of the runway and through Bedouin territory. This was big stuff for a 12- year-old.

Depending on the season, there were usually a few black tents hugging the desert floor along our intended route of 11 kilos from the south slope of Jebel Zhahrana to the coast. The Scoutmaster showed us the thin, red line on the map, gave us the bearing, and told us to stay together in groups of three or four. Those without compasses teamed with those who did. We got on our stomachs for the first sighting, choosing a prominent feature (there were none) on the horizon or the nearest ridge. Within the first few kilos, we had lost touch with one another as the groups scattered across the eastern edge of al Hasa.

My group's first challenge was the dogs of a Bedouin encampment. We knew the rules of engagement and skirted the back of the tent at a good distance. An old man and a young boy watched us make the arc. We got down for another sighting and they came out the 100 or so meters to see what we were doing. We had done this kind of thing before, met Bedouins in the desert (photo above).

The dogs came with them, growling and barking. The man had a flexible stick and swatted at them occasionally. He was courteous and curious. We were decked out in our knives, compasses, canteens, Scout scarves, and red checkered gutras with black egals. A few of us had Scout shirts. Most were in short pants but a few wore jeans. We looked ragtag actually. He talked rapidly and we did not understand much. We sank down on the sand and made signs to one another. We were nervous about him but he did not take advantage of us. We could tell he liked the fold-up pocket knives. After a few minutes, we motioned toward the Gulf and left.

On this trek we passed through an area of artifacts just beyond the runways; we found pieces of pottery bracelets and some colorful stones fogged by the beating sand. After a couple of hours, we topped a rise and in the distance we could see a narrow, dark ribbon of the Gulf. We were excited by this but still several hours away from our goal.

The lapping water of the spit was welcome but we could not see our target. There were to be tents and a big sweet water truck. We looked up and down the beach and decided to turn south into the spit. After a half hour of trudging along the water's edge we saw the truck in the distance and let out a whoop! We knew we were safe and a cool drink was only a few minutes away.

Although no one got lost, there were a lot of stragglers coming in twos and threes. Some of the groups broke into smaller units because they could not agree on direction. Most of the canteens were bone dry.

As the boys dragged in, we asked one another what had been encountered. We exchanged stories and showed what we had found. Pete Simons was quite popular; he came with a Saluki pup from his group's adventure with a tribesman and his family. Pete had another story to tell when he got back home to Dhahran.

It was a three day camperee and Crown Prince Sa'ud visited with his entourage. The Scoutmaster instructed us on how to behave to the Crown Prince. We were allowed to gently shake his hand without too much pumping. And while eating, we were not allowed to say hamburgers; they were beef burgers. When I shook the Prince's hand, it was soft and cool as a melon. In that blazing heat, with his thobe and other outer garments, he was cool and quite regal. He was also very tall.

We prepared several Scouting events, one of which was fire building. The first fire to spring up and cut the twine above was the winner. I saw something of Saudi generosity that day. When Pete won, the Prince put his hand behind his back, palm open. I saw a bodyguard quickly take off his wristwatch and slip it into the Crown Prince's hand. He presented it to Pete. Our mouths dropped open. Several of my colleagues were awarded this way.

We made other treks to places: Jebel Shamaal, Ras al Mishab, Half Moon Bay, Bird Island, Bahrain, Hofuf, and Tarut Island by bus, boat, and even airplane. But I'll remember the trek to al Azzaziyah fondly because it was the only time I ever shook the hand of a real desert prince.

Copyright ©1999-2006 Rolf A. Christophersen
All Rights Reserved.

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