We Scouts met early at the south fence
where it angled to include the
Davies mansion, the only two
story residence in Dhahran.
It was clear and hot! We were
headed to al Azzaziyah spit
and our course of ESE would
take us just south of the runway
and through Bedouin territory.
This was big stuff for a 12-
year-old.
Depending on the season, there were usually a few black tents
hugging the desert floor along our intended route of 11 kilos
from the south slope of Jebel Zhahrana to the coast. The Scoutmaster
showed us the thin, red line on the map, gave us the bearing,
and told us to stay together in groups of three or four. Those
without compasses teamed with those who did. We got on our stomachs
for the first sighting, choosing a prominent feature (there were
none) on the horizon or the nearest ridge. Within the first few
kilos, we had lost touch with one another as the groups scattered
across the eastern edge of al Hasa.
My group's first challenge was the dogs of a Bedouin encampment.
We knew the rules of engagement and skirted the back of the tent
at a good distance. An old man and a young boy watched us make
the arc. We got down for another sighting and they came out the
100 or so meters to see what we were doing. We had done this kind
of thing before, met Bedouins in the desert (photo above).
The dogs came with them, growling and barking. The man had a flexible
stick and swatted at them occasionally. He was courteous and curious.
We were decked out in our knives, compasses, canteens, Scout scarves,
and red checkered gutras with black egals. A few of us had Scout
shirts. Most were in short pants but a few wore jeans. We looked
ragtag actually. He talked rapidly and we did not understand much.
We sank down on the sand and made signs to one another. We were
nervous about him but he did not take advantage of us. We could
tell he liked the fold-up pocket knives. After a few minutes,
we motioned toward the Gulf and left.
On this trek we passed through an area of artifacts just beyond
the runways; we found pieces of pottery bracelets and some colorful
stones fogged by the beating sand. After a couple of hours, we
topped a rise and in the distance we could see a narrow, dark
ribbon of the Gulf. We were excited by this but still several
hours away from our goal.
The lapping water of the spit was welcome but we could not see
our target. There were to be tents and a big sweet water truck.
We looked up and down the beach and decided to turn south into
the spit. After a half hour of trudging along the water's edge
we saw the truck in the distance and let out a whoop! We knew
we were safe and a cool drink was only a few minutes away.
Although no one got lost, there were a lot of stragglers coming
in twos and threes. Some of the groups broke into smaller units
because they could not agree on direction. Most of the canteens
were bone dry.
As the boys dragged in, we asked one another what had been encountered.
We exchanged stories and showed what we had found. Pete Simons
was quite popular; he came with a Saluki pup from his group's
adventure with a tribesman and his family. Pete had another story
to tell when he got back home to Dhahran.
It was a three day camperee and Crown Prince Sa'ud visited
with his entourage. The Scoutmaster instructed us on how to
behave to the Crown Prince. We were allowed to gently shake
his hand without too much pumping. And while eating, we were
not allowed to say hamburgers; they were beef burgers. When
I shook the Prince's hand, it was soft and cool as a melon.
In that blazing heat, with his thobe and other outer garments,
he was cool and quite regal. He was also very tall.
We prepared several Scouting events, one of which was fire building.
The first fire to spring up and cut the twine above was the winner.
I saw something of Saudi generosity that day. When Pete won, the
Prince put his hand behind his back, palm open. I saw a bodyguard
quickly take off his wristwatch and slip it into the Crown Prince's
hand. He presented it to Pete. Our mouths dropped open. Several
of my colleagues were awarded this way.
We made other treks to places: Jebel Shamaal, Ras al Mishab, Half
Moon Bay, Bird Island, Bahrain, Hofuf, and Tarut Island by bus,
boat, and even airplane. But I'll remember the trek to al Azzaziyah
fondly because it was the only time I ever shook the hand of a
real desert prince. |